Twenty-five doughs

The Menu

Every one of these is a different answer to the same question: what happens between flour and fire. The number on the right is hydration, the share of water to flour, which is the fastest way to tell how a dough will feel in your hands.

Italy

Where the argument started

NeapolitanVerace pizza napoletana 60% Contemporary NeapolitanCanotto, the dinghy 70% Roman al taglioPizza in teglia 80% Roman tondaScrocchiarella 57% Pinsa romana 80% Sfincione 78% FocacciaGenovese and barese 80%

The Atlantic

New York and everything the immigrants built around it

New York 62% Grandma 68% SicilianAmerican square, Detroit's ancestor 70% Bar pieTavern pie, New Jersey style 58% New Haven apizzaAh-beetz 68% Buffalo 62% Old ForgeTrays and cuts 65%

The Midwest

Pans, steel, and regional stubbornness

Detroit 72% Chicago deep dish 52% Chicago tavernThin, party cut 43% St. Louis 42% Quad Cities 60% Greek 65%

By method

Chosen by the oven you own, not the town you live in

Naturally leavenedSourdough pizza 68% Cast iron pan 70% California 66% Grilled 60% Gluten free 90%