Pizza Dept.

Open all night

Detroit, Michigan · 1946

Detroit

Blue steel pan, cheese to the edge, frico rim

Scale this formula

Born in blue steel automotive parts pans. Wet dough proofed in the pan, brick cheese pushed all the way to the walls so it fries against the metal into a crisp lace edge, and sauce ladled on top in stripes after the bake starts.

Method

  1. Mix to a wet, sticky dough. No serious kneading: three sets of folds in the bowl do the work.
  2. Bulk two hours, then refrigerate overnight if you have the time.
  3. Oil the pan properly, tip the dough in, and press it toward the corners with oiled fingers.
  4. It will not reach. Rest 20 minutes and press again. Repeat until the corners are filled.
  5. Proof until puffed and wobbly.
  6. Cube brick cheese and lay it edge to edge, pressing it against the pan walls. That contact is the whole style.
  7. Bake, then ladle two or three stripes of sauce down the length. Sauce goes on last, never underneath.

Fermentation

StageTimeTemperatureNotes
Bulk 2 h 22°C / 72°F
Cold ferment 24 h 4°C / 39°F Optional but recommended.
Pan proof 3 h 23°C / 73°F Until it fills the pan and jiggles.

Times are a guide. How to read the dough instead of the clock →

The bake

Oven275°C527°F
Time12-16 minutes

Surface. Anodised steel Detroit pan, lower rack

Run the pan hot enough to fry the cheese at the wall. When it is right, a knife run around the edge releases a solid caramelised crust of cheese with the pizza.

On top

Sauce
Cooked, thick, a little sweet, spooned over the top.
Cheese
Wisconsin brick. Whole milk mozzarella with a bit of mild cheddar is the workable substitute.
Toppings
Pepperoni under the cheese so it steams rather than burns.

You got it right when A dark, crunchy, cheese-fried rim you can hear, and a light open crumb underneath.