Pizza Dept.

Open all night

Long Island, New York · 1970s

Grandma

Sheet pan, thin, sauce on top

Scale this formula

A home cook's pan pizza that got adopted by pizzerias: pressed into an oiled sheet pan the same day, cheese first, sauce in stripes on top. Thinner and crisper than Sicilian, and forgiving enough that it is the pan pizza to start with.

Method

  1. Mix to a soft dough and knead briefly. This one does not need much.
  2. Bulk until doubled.
  3. Pour a few tablespoons of oil into the pan and press the dough halfway to the edges. It will fight you.
  4. Walk away 20 minutes, then press it the rest of the way. Fighting a relaxed dough is a losing game; waiting always wins.
  5. Rest in the pan an hour until slightly puffed.
  6. Grate mozzarella straight onto the dough, add thin slices of garlic, then ladle sauce in three stripes.
  7. Bake on the lowest rack, then slide the pie onto a rack so the bottom does not steam.

Fermentation

StageTimeTemperatureNotes
Bulk 2 h 22°C / 72°F
Cold ferment 18 h 4°C / 39°F Optional; same-day works.
Pan rest 2 h 22°C / 72°F In two stages, with a break to relax.

Times are a guide. How to read the dough instead of the clock →

The bake

Oven260°C500°F
Time16-20 minutes

Surface. Oiled steel sheet pan, bottom rack

Cheese under sauce keeps the base dry and lets the tomato concentrate rather than boil.

On top

Sauce
Crushed tomato with garlic, oregano and oil, uncooked.
Cheese
Low moisture mozzarella under the sauce, pecorino over the top.
Toppings
Fresh basil after the bake. Sliced tomato in summer.

You got it right when Crisp fried bottom, thin chewy crumb, tomato stripes that darkened in the oven.