Wess.pizza

Open all night

Sao Paulo

Frango com catupiry

Chicken and requeijao

Shredded chicken under a molten cream cheese

Scale the dough for this

Sao Paulo has more pizzerias than most Italian cities and a completely separate idea of what a pizza is: thin and dry underneath, loaded on top, cut into a great many slices, and very often finished with catupiry. Catupiry is a requeijao, a Brazilian cream cheese made since 1911, and it does not melt so much as become a sauce. Nothing sold as cream cheese elsewhere behaves the same way; a soft, spoonable requeijao or a mascarpone thinned with cream is the nearest honest substitute.

The build

  1. Poach and shred chicken, then dress it with a little of the tomato so it is not dry.
  2. Sauce, mozzarella, then the chicken in an even layer.
  3. Drop the catupiry over in spoonfuls. Do not spread it; it spreads itself.
  4. Oregano, heavily.

After the oven In Brazil, ketchup on the table and nobody apologising for it.

The bake

Oven275°C527°F
Time8-12 minutes

Long enough for the requeijao to slump and blister at the edges. It never browns like mozzarella.

On top

Sauce
A light cooked tomato, thin, with oregano. Oregano is the Brazilian pizza herb, not basil.
Cheese
Mozzarella under the chicken, catupiry in spoonfuls over the top.

You got it right when Pale, glossy pools of cheese sitting proud of the surface, and a base you can hear.